Can Bakuchiol Be Used Around the Eyes and Brows?

What Estheticians Want You to Know

Bakuchiol keeps coming up as the gentler cousin to retinol, and clients ask about it all the time. Especially when we start talking about fine lines, dark circles, and brow-area aging. But the eye and brow area is delicate territory, so the rules are a little different.

Here's what estheticians actually want you to understand before you dab it anywhere near your lashes or brows. This is the kind of guidance I give clients at Ritual Beauty Room in Thousand Oaks, CA on the regular.

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What Bakuchiol Is (Quick Refresher)

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient that supports collagen and skin smoothing without triggering the heavy peeling or redness often associated with retinoids. It does not increase cell turnover the same way retinol does, which is why many people tolerate it better.

That said, "better tolerated" is not the same as "foolproof."

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Why the Eye and Brow Area Needs Extra Caution

The skin around the eyes and brows is:

• Thinner than the rest of the face
• More reactive
• Slower to recover if irritated

Even gentle actives can cause puffiness, dryness, or stinging here. And if brows are healing from microblading or waxing, the skin barrier is already compromised. That’s where problems start if products are rushed back in.

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How Product Formulas Change the Answer

Not all bakuchiol products are created equal. This matters a lot.

ISDIN Isdinceutics Melatonik

This is a nighttime serum that combines bakuchiol with melatonin and vitamin C. It’s designed to support skin recovery overnight and improve elasticity. While it’s often well tolerated, it’s generally recommended to avoid direct eye contact, especially at first. Many estheticians suggest keeping it on the face and neck, not right up to the lash line.

Paula’s Choice Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment

This one is a combo formula. It contains actual retinol, not just bakuchiol. Because of that, it should not be used around the eyes or brows, period. Retinol plus thin skin is a recipe for irritation, dryness, and migration into the eye area.

This is a big one clients misunderstand.

EQQUALBERRY Bakuchiol Plumping Face Serum

This serum focuses on bakuchiol paired with hydrating and barrier-supportive ingredients like peptides and ceramides. It’s marketed as gentle and plumping, and many people with sensitive skin tolerate it well. Even so, most estheticians still recommend keeping it outside the orbital area and away from brow hairs, especially if skin is healing.

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Can Bakuchiol Be Used Near the Eyes?

Short answer: sometimes, carefully.

Longer answer:

• It should never go on the eyelid or lash line
• Application should stay along the orbital bone only
• Less is more, always

If someone has never used bakuchiol before, the eye area is not the place to experiment.

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What About Brows?

Brows are a different story.

If brows are:

• Healing from microblading
• Recently waxed or threaded
• Experiencing flaking or sensitivity

Then bakuchiol should wait.

Once the skin is fully healed and calm, some clients may tolerate bakuchiol around the brow bone, but estheticians usually advise avoiding direct application over brow hair to protect pigment retention and prevent irritation.

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Esthetician-Approved Tips for Safe Use

Patch test first Always. Jawline or behind the ear for 24 hours before going anywhere near the eyes.

Buffer sensitive skin Apply a basic moisturizer first, then a tiny amount of bakuchiol on top to reduce irritation.

Start slow Two to three nights per week is plenty at the beginning.

Avoid product migration Use a rice-grain amount max. Products travel more than people think.

SPF is not optional Bakuchiol is gentler than retinol, but daily sunscreen is still essential for protecting results.

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When Estheticians Say "No"

Bakuchiol should be skipped around the eyes and brows if:

• The skin is actively healing
• There's a history of eczema or strong reactions
• The product also contains retinol or exfoliating acids
• The client reports stinging, itching, or swelling

In those cases, barrier-repair products come first. Always.

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The Bottom Line

Bakuchiol can be a great option for clients who want visible skin benefits without classic retinol irritation. But the eye and brow area require restraint and intention. Formula matters. Timing matters. Healing skin always wins.

Used thoughtfully, bakuchiol fits beautifully into a professional skincare routine. Used carelessly, it's just another reason clients end up texting their esthetician at midnight asking why their eyes are puffy.

If you want, I can also turn this into a shorter client handout or an aftercare add-on specific to brow services.